Wednesday, August 21, 2013

8/21/2013 - Days 5 & 6 - Cruising amongst giants in Halong Bay

How is my alarm going off before 7 again?  More importantly, what country are we in now?  The events of last night finally started to wind back in my brain.  After a relatively uneventful flight in which the biggest mishap was our dear mother getting water dumped on her by what turned out to be a very friendly and apologetic flight attendant, we arrived in Hanoi and cruised through immigration.  Unfortunately baggage claim was another matter.  There were only two carousels on opposite ends of the building and about half an hour in, they switched our luggage to the other one.  One of the more entertaining parts of the trip was watching the security guard try and get people to go through security, but just giving up after a hoard of people ran past and slightly over him.  

No need to rush though, 30 minutes later our luggage still had not arrived.  
After an endless assortment of random boxes and cases of beer (beer?) coming down the conveyor belt as well as multiple people yelling in Vietnamese, our suitcases finally arrived.  The only question now was, would the van still be waiting for us?  Ahh, nothing like seeing 'Daniel Court' on a signboard after all that.  Our adventure, however, was just beginning.  First, the driver managed to Austin Powers style back the 11 passenger van out our spot in the parking lot.  Then, halfway between the airport and Hanoi, he passed a few cars on the shoulder of the road and finally proceeded to drive down the dotted line for a few kilometers.  Who would have thought once we started winding our way through the narrow streets of the old quarter the ride would be more subdued.  After all that though, the staff at the Essence Hotel (another solid Tripadvisor find) were waiting with cold towels and banana smoothies. Sleep came immediately.

With last night in our head, we again stumbled downstairs for another breakfast of fresh fruit and pastries and then jumped in a different 11 seater van for the 3 hour drive from Hanoi to Halong Bay.  The Vietnamese countryside and villages kept us entertained, that, and the driver seemingly randomly pulling out from behind the car we were following to pass even though a semi would be barreling at us from the other side.  This happened multiple times and yet we never even came close to hitting anyone or worse, being hit ourselves.  Finally, we pulled into the harbor area and were greeted by the staff who would ferry us out to the Ginger, our white Chinese Junk and home for the next 3 days and 2 nights.
We had barely settled in when it was time for the first of what would turn out to be multiple five course meals.  We had heard great reviews about this boat, but they were starting off on the right foot so far.  After lunch, we walked upstairs to take in the limestone karsts everywhere and started to begin to understand why Halong Bay means 'descending dragon' in Vietnamese.  It wasn't long before we were being called back downstairs to board the launch to walk through a cave on one of the islands that had been inhabited in the past.  The next stop was a local fishing village hidden in a cove.  Pair by pair, we boarded little row boats that seemed to flit across the water like water bugs.  The village had everything, a school, a visiting floating store, even dogs running around the floating houses.  

After the 3 hour van ride, cave tour and fishing village we were a little wiped out.  The last item before dinner though, had seriously caught my eye.... spring roll making demonstration!  Gin and tonic in hand (how else do you enjoy an open air cruise in Southeast Asia) we learned the tricks of the trade.  Chop everything up first, pork, carrots, shallots, onions, and mix it all together with some salt and pepper.  Then you take your rice paper, put it on a damp towel so it gets soft and then roll up the goodness.  We're going to try and replicate it this weekend, will report back on our success or lack thereof.  

Spring roll appetizers, check.  Evening drink on the top deck, check.  Amazing sunset over Halong Bay, check.  We had officially left the modernity of Singapore behind, the temples of Cambodia were South of us and the craziness of Hanoi was already a fading memory.  Tomorrow promised biking, swimming and kayaking.  Can't wait.













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